What are dark spots?
Dermatologically speaking, dark spots are a type of hyperpigmentation, or the development of a patch of skin which is darker than surrounding skin. This is caused by the excess volume and uneven distribution of melanin, the natural pigment that gives the skin its color. A build-up of melanin can result in the formation of these colored marks on the skin's surface. These dark spots are mainly located on the face, neckline and the back of the hands, and they are usually harmless. They are associated with skin ageing.
L'Oréal has been studying the subject of pigmentation for over 20 years in its laboratories. As early as 1996, the first work consisted in developing a model of pigmented reconstructed skin in vitro to gain knowledge on the mechanisms of pigmentation induction. Our laboratories were the first to develop this type of model and to show that it was possible in vitro not only to obtain skins of different colors depending on the origin of the melanocyte donor, but also that these models could react to stimuli such as UV light by generating hyperpigmentation.
Over the past 20 years, numerous studies have been carried out in vitro and then in vivo on humans to assess the efficacy of different active ingredients: over 121 clinical studies have been carried out in 20 years in 13 countries/5 continents, involving more than 12,000 participants. Finally, in a recent study using AI, our researchers characterized skin ageing in over 600,000 women of European and Asian origin, showing differences between these 2 populations in the appearance of hyperpigmentation with age. L'Oréal laboratories therefore have a long and solid expertise in skin pigmentation in all its diversity.
Signs of an uneven complexion - Nascent dark spots
Dark spots originate from and in melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells in the basal layer of the epidermis. These cells react to stimuli (like exposure to UV rays) by producing too much melanin. These excess melanin deposits gradually begin to rise up within the epidermis and to change the uniformity of the skin, but remain invisible until they reach the skin’s surface.
Loss of skin uniformity - Established dark spots
Deposits of excess melanin arrive at the upper epidermal layers.
The dark spots become established on the surface of the skin and are thus visible.
Long-term alteration of the skin's uniformity - Recurrent dark spots
It is possible to reduce dark spots at the epidermal surface. However, the melanocytes responsible for their appearance remain overactive. As a result, these spots will reappear and once again impact the quality of the complexion.
What causes dark spots?
There are numerous causes for the appearance of dark spots on the skin, and several factors can be considered responsible for their appearance. Generally speaking, pigmentary changes may have genetic causes, or they may be acquired. They may also be medication-related, or otherwise related to an aesthetic procedure, like a chemical peel for example. Other pigmentary disorders may be transmitted through infection. When it comes to dark spots, we’ll discuss its main causes: sun exposure, inflammation, ageing and hormones.
Sun exposure
Sun spots or sun lentigos form due to direct, prolonged exposure to UV (ultraviolet) rays. Exposure to UV rays (and pollution) may cause inflammation of the skin, both in the form of sunburn, and in the over production of free radicals in skin cells, which then triggers a chronic inflammation process. Exposure to UV can speed up the production of melanin. Over time, as melanin is produced in high concentrations, sun spots appear.
Inflammation
Inflammation is an immune response in the body. On the skin, symptoms include: redness, rash, hives, blisters or itching. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) in particular is a type of hyperpigmentation generally triggered by how the skin regenerates after inflammation. It often affects the face and other areas of the body exposed to UV, visible as dark spots on the skin.
Ageing
So-called age spots are common from age forty onwards. They are caused by oxidative stress and changes in the metabolism of the skin cells like melanocytes. Oxidative stress means an increased presence of oxidants, which leads to inflammation of the skin. These age spots are skin cells on the basal epidermal layer. They represent less than 1% of our epidermal cells and are more numerous on the face than on other parts of the body. Their number diminishes with age: -10% every 10 years.
Hormones
Contraceptive pills and certain medications which affect the body's hormonal balance can also cause dark spots to form, especially after exposure to the sun. Hormone activity and hormonal changes can also lead to the appearance of what’s known as “pregnancy mask,” which affects certain pregnant women (before and/or after the birth).
Types of dark spots
With their various causes, dark spots can show up on the skin a number of different ways.
Melasma or chloasma is an acquired light or dark-brown hyperpigmentation that occurs in the areas of the skin exposed to the sun, most often on the face. Melasma affected skin presents a high quantity of melanin throughout the epidermis and extending to the dermis. Up to 1/3 of women are at risk from melasma. And among people with darker complexions, females are 9x more at risk. (Passeron & Picardo, 2018)
Like other kinds of dark spots, melasma has several potential causes. It may be caused by excess or accumulated sun exposure. Genetic factors may be another cause. Pregnancy, too, can be a factor, which is why melasma is sometimes referred to as pregnancy mask. Treatments with estrogen and oral contraceptives, which impact one’s hormone levels, are yet another potential cause. Thyroid dysfunction may also be related to melasma, though the link between the two is not entirely clear. Photosensitizing drugs, which make one’s skin more sensitive to light, can also affect melanin production and the appearance of these dark patches.
Another condition that results in dark spots is Actinic Lentigo or Solar lentigo, resulting from exposure to UV rays. Also known as “old age spots” or “senile freckles, solar lentigos are very common, especially in people over the age of 40 or 50. Solar lentigo clinically develop as flat, well-circumscribed patches of skin with varying colors (dark-brown) and sizes (from millimeters to centimeters). These dark spots are often found in groups, and generally on the parts of the skin most often exposed to the sun: like the face or the back of hands. They occur on skin of varying complexions but tend to be more numerous in fair-skinned individuals.
The third main category of dark spots results from Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, or PIH. While they appear in men and women of all ages, they are more commonly seen in young adults. The spots can last for many years. PIH appears after what is known after “cutaneous injury,” or damage to the skin. This may result from acne, infections, insect stings, burns, shaving bumps or other injuries. Procedures like laser, peeling, dermabrasion, and surgery can also damage the skin leading to these dark spots. Certain drugs and inflammatory disorders may also be a cause. Dark spots related to PIH are particularly common in darker complexions and PIH has been reported to be the second most important dermatological diagnosis in the African-American population (Alexis, Sergay, & Taylor, 2007).
How to correct dark spots?
Whatever their cause, dark spots are very common skin conditions and they can have a huge impact on a person’s quality of life. Patients with pigmentary disorders like melasma, solar lentigo, or PIH often deal with a high frequency of psychological disturbances, including anxiety and depression, and can deal with distress or low self-esteem due to how they perceive their appearance. Depression has been observed in 13% of people living with melasma patients. (Dabas et al., 2019) These individuals also report feelings of frustration stemming from their melasma-related dark spots. Of course, each individual will have a unique perspective and experience.
Thanks to years of dedicated research, La Roche-Posay has developed a re-unifying skincare routine to help remove dark spots. La Roche-Posay’s MELAB3 Serum, developed by industry-leading dermatological experts, contains the new active ingredient when it comes to correcting hyperpigmentation and eliminating dark spots: Melasyl. Thanks to this multi-patented ingredient developed after 18 years of research, MELAB3 Serum is a faster, stronger solution for dark spots, bringing visible results in just one week. As opposed to other skincare products on the market which block melanin production, the serum intercepts the excess melanin before it marks the skin. MELAB3’s groundbreaking intensive care formula includes 10% Niacinamide (a form of Vitamin B3), and other key complementary ingredients to simultaneously target all pathways involved in hyperpigmentation. MELAB3 Serum leaves the skin even and radiant.
How to prevent dark spots?
When it comes to preventing dark spots, one of the best defenses is limiting sun exposure. Avoiding the sun between the brightest, hottest hours of the day, and limiting time outdoors during those hours is helpful. Applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least 30 SPF is recommended, and it should be applied before going outdoors, and reapplied every two hours (or more often if you’re sweating or going swimming). Covering up with clothing or a hat can help protect your skin as well. Remember that UV can reach you even indoors, so sun protection is relevant wherever you are.
La Roche-Posay’s MELA B3 SPF 30 ANTI-DARK SPOTS CORRECTIVE PROTECTIVE CARE helps protect the skin from harmful UV rays, while also intercepting excess melanin before it forms dark spots. This corrective, protective formula harness both Melasyl and 5% Niacinamide to correct even the most persistent dark spots, and to prevent new spots from appearing. Used as part of a skincare routine with the MELAB3 Serum, La Roche-Posay’s MELA B3 SPF 30 ANTI-DARK SPOTS CORRECTIVE PROTECTIVE CARE doubles your dose of Melasyl. Its velvety, non-sticky texture makes it perfect for use on the face, hands and neck, and it absorbs easily into all types of skin. As an essential first step, you can use the MELAB3 Clarifying Micro-Peeling Gel to cleanse the skin, renewing skin from your very first use. It’s clinically proven on all skin tones, removing impurities without irritation.
Treating the root cause of dark spots can also help prevent their appearance. When it comes to PIH-related spots, for example, correcting the underlying cause, like acne, eczema, or psoriasis, can help prevent them.
Look for the right skincare products with the right ingredients to help prevent the appearance of dark spots. The main ingredient that should be avoided is mercury, while the ingredients to look for are: retinol or alpha hydroxy acid, kojic acid, Vitamin C, azelaic acid, and glycolic acid.
When to see a dermatologist?
While using the right skincare routine can help eliminate and prevent dark spots, seeing a dermatologist may also be a practical step to take. If the treatment you’re using does not bring the visible results you wish for, or if you are unsure of the cause of your dark sports, seeing a dermatologist may help you get the best results. Dermatologists are specialists who have the knowledge, expertise and training to help diagnose and treat your skin condition. They can recommend the right combination of treatments, whether than includes medication, laser therapy or chemical peels. Dermatologists can help bring clarity, in more ways than one.
Remember that dark spots are harmless. However, if you’d like to lighten those spots or prevent their appearance, make sure to protect yourself from the sun, and set up a re-unifying skincare designed to help. Start by exploring La Roche Posay’s MELAB3 Serum, rich in Melasyl and Niacinamide.